Some Things They Never Tell You

 …..About Planting Trees and Shrubs

  • Decide and then tag the best faces of  your chosen individuals in the nursery.
    Look for the best faces of your chosen trees and shrubs when they are standing relaxed in the nursery. Tie a ribbon or somesuch to a branch at the front and center of the plant’s face as you will want to see it in your landscape, especially if the plants will be tied up for transport to your place. When your things arrive, find your ribbon marking, and you will know just where the best face is. This way you can get the individuals into their places close to correctly before you fully untie them.
    The wrapping of branches distorts them, making it harder to find the face just when you need to at planting time. If you haven’t marked, you may need to untie things and give them at least some hours to relax before you can find their best faces.
  • Clean Plants and remove extraneous tags, twine and dead or broken branches before planting.
    This will save a lot of time overall. When the plant is in its B&B* or container, you can reach everything more easily than after planting. Just lean the whole situation over to reach the highest and lowest branches.
    While the plant is in its root wrappings it is often the best time to clean at the base of the individual. Unwanted plants may be sharing the pots as volunteers, and before planting is a good time to remove them. If the invader has become so very entangled in the root ball that you might destabilise the contained plant by removing it, don’t. Just chop off any seeding parts and plant the whole situation as is. You can remove the rogue and its roots safely after your good plant is well settled in the earth.
  • Watch out for plasticised burlap.
    This is insidious stuff……. If the plant is wrapped in plastic burlap,  since this material will not biodegrade, every bit of it must be removed. The roots of your plant will not be able to grow through the plastic burlap, so if you leave it on, the plant will suffer, and probably die before long.
    When you scrabble the roots of a pot grown thing, you may even ( ridiculous but true….) find plastic materials harking from a previous growing phase. Please pull these out from amongst the roots to favor your plant’s growth.
    Normal biodegradeable burlap is also cut away once the plant is in the hole. If, however, the plants roots are not well grown into the medium, I may cut away just the top ½ of the wrapping burlap and leave the rest so as not to destabilise the root ball. 
  • Look out for ball and burlap plants that have the crowns of the tree or shrub badly wrapped.
    When you measure for the planting bowl you will dig, you need to know the actual depth of the root ball, from the base to the crown of the plant. The earth and roots within the burlap may have shifted, so look into the tied burlap center, reveal the crown, then measure from there for a suitable digging depth.
    If the crown of the plant gets buried, in most cases, your tree planting will not succeed.
  • A stone or three as needed.
    In New Hampshire, in places where there is a lot of heaving and thawing or movement of underground water, trees are traditionally planted with one or a few stones set judiciously beneath and alongside their root balls. This helps water to drain away and stabilises the root ball.
  • “Plant in a bowl, not in a hole”              Richmond Poole, Arborist and Teacher
    Unless you have a special circumstance, it will usually be best for the base of the planting bowl not to be much deeper than the actual rootball height. If you make the hole deeper, the soft earth you come back with may allow the tree or shrub to sink some over time.
    If the soil in the base is loose at planting time, tamp it down as best as you can before measuring for your planting depth.
    On the other hand, some extra diameter of the prepared hole can be an advantage for the planting. If you can add back some freshly softened earth, the newly arrived plant will easily put new side roots into it. Don’t put too much by way of enhancements into the bowl earth though. It will usually be better if the comeback earth you use has plenty of body to it, and drains well. Use whatever loam or mixture the plant came with (unless weedy) to blend in with the native soil.
  • Removing root bound plants from containers
    If you find that your purchased plant does not easily slide out of its pot ‘house’, it has probably been living in there a while and its roots may be tightly grown into every crevice. Systematically hitting the outer part of the pot on all sides with a trowel or hammer may loosen things up so that the plant can slide out…..but…..if  it doesn’t come out readily ……..
  • Don’t pull on the plant itself
    If you pull on the plant, you may do some damage. Instead sacrifice the pot by slicing the container away. Cut down from top to bottom in a couple / few places with your all purpose scissors or a mat knife. You can recycle the plastic pot parts.
  • Access to water and nutrients
    Once a plant that has been grown like this comes out of its pot, the sides and bottom will often be densely networked with roots, many of which may have been growing around the potted plant in circles. To encourage normal root growth and avoid the self strangulation encirclement can cause, I scrabble all the sides and base of the plant with a garden fork or knife until the roots are somewhat freed up. Often I may need to cut the roots in many places to help the inner ones  to grow out into their new homes. Opening the roots a bit  facilitates the entry of water and nutrients from the new surroundings to encourage your new plants.
    For many trees, you may want the crown of the plant a bit higher than the surrounding grade. This anticipates a little settlement and enhances drainage around the individual crowns. Usually this means just a subtle inch (or two) of height advantage, tapering away gradually into the surroundings. It will not remind anyone of a hill or a volcano if you do it considerately.
  • If the root ball is unstable in its container, Don’t disturb the roots.
    Perhaps the plant was grown in a sandy loam, or recently moved to a new size pot. In such a case, remove it from its container carefully, trying not to disturb the roots any more than is necessary in transferring the plant into its new ground.
  • Melting the Earth. (Puddling)
    When the tree or shrub has been stabilised for verticality and good appearance, and filled back with earth 2/3 of the way or so, I add Roots 2 (TM), diluted in lots of water to the trough area around the plant. This elixir reliably eases the transition for most tree and shrub plantings. Unlike some fertilisers, direct application cannot harm the plants.
    With or without the Roots 2 (TM), once you have stablilised your planting fully, puddle it, let it drain, puddle again. This brings loam in around the roots, helping them all to make contact with the earth in their new home, and gets rid of the dreaded ‘air pockets’ that would hinder transplant success. You will add back some earth to bring the surrounds back up to grade. This melting of the earth snuggles the roots in, and snuggling is a good thing.
  • Some shrubs like to have their crowns on grade, some don’t care.
    If they are suckering or stoloniferous types you can expect some indifference in this matter.
    There are also some things whose crowns are better off planted deeply. Our Roses and Clematis number among them, so you will want to check into the specific planting needs of your particular candidates.
  • * B & B =  Ball and Burlap = A method of tying up the rootball of a tree or shrub for transplanting, by wrapping it in burlap and securing it with (usually) Jute twine.
    Alternatively, the same kind of plant may have been grown on and matured in plastic containers. Both ways can work well. I find container grown plants are easier to handle and safely transport, unless the root ball is large.

This entry was posted in Garden Making Guidance, Landscape Making Guidance, Plant Portraits and Stories, Things They Never Tell You, Your Reasoned Landscape and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.
  • All written and visual materials on this site are Copyrighted. (C) Ellen Cool 2010 - 2019


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